Saturday, February 14, 2009

Thursday 5 February, Kathmandu

11:00 at Himalayan Encounters (HE) for our 'touristic' day.
To Swayambhu Temple (Monkey-Temple). Entrance fee Rs.100.
The legend tells that this place was a big lake with a Lotus in the middle.
(more touristic details will follow later or check : http://sanghita.travellerspoint.com).

A hectic, dusty drive tho Bhaktapur. Nabin, our guide is from Bhaktapur ("the most beautiful city in the world") and it was great fun to have him as company.

"You have NOT seen Nepal, if you have not been stuck in a traffic jam". (Nabin)

About 70% of the Bhaktapur locals are farmers, the rest is working as a carpenter, pottery or tourist shops.
So peaceful after hectic Kathmandu to walk through Bhaktapur - where after the entrance gate you are not allowed with a car in bid to curb pollution.

(Entrance fee 750rs)


"Were there nothing else in Nepal, save the Durbar Square of Bhaktapur, it would still be amply worth making a journey halfway round the world to see". (E. Powell, The Last Home of Mystery, 1929, London).

The conch shaped historic city of Bhaktapur (city of Devotees) spreads over an area of 6.88 sq.km and lies at 12 km. east of Kathmandu. This city was founded in the 12th century by King Anand Dev Malla. It is renowned for its elegant art, fabulous culture,, colourful festivals, traditional dances and the typical Newari lifestyle.
Age-old dances and festivals are still observed by the locals with the same fervour and enthusiasm as their ancestors did in the past.
In spite of continual invasions by intruders and natural calamities, the historic city still boasts of its superb art and subtle culture so vividly depicted on the remaining palaces, temples, monasteries, Biharas and other monuments.
The Hindus and Buddhists have coexisted in harmony and drawn inspirations from each other through the ages.
Bhaktapur is predominantly comprised of the peasantry (farming). Other traditional enterprises like painting, carving, pottery, etc. are still existing.
Monuments and artistic carvings on wood, stone and metal are strewn all over the city.
Alleys and narrow, zigzagged lanes lead you to see the environment of Newar medieval settlements.
Three main squares of the city are connected to one another with quaint streets.

Durbar Square: the most open public place of the city, the most outstanding cluster of exquisite temples and the royal palaces ornamented with work of arts. Here lies: the fifty five windowed palace with the Golden Gate, Golden Spout, Big Bell and a few temples. (picture).

Taumadhi square: just a minute walk from Durbar Square. A standout is the towering five storied pagoda (picture.
This temple is dedicated to the three-headed Deity of the Hindus. The deity symbolizes 3 Deities in combination:
1. Brahma - God of Creation; 2. Bishnu- God of Protection and 3. Maheswara - God of Destruction.
The Square as a whole can be regarded as a museum of wood carvings and one can smell the environments of medieval period around this square.

Pottery Square (picture) where one can observe the potters shaping the pots on their wheels, the women laying out the pots in the sun to dry, the shops where the pottery, elephants etc are on display. (picture).
From Dattatraya Square - where you can see monasteries, the Bhimsen Temple (picture) and where the local market is, you can reach the street where the Peacock Window is placed.
(driver 2000 Rs, guide 1500 Rs).


Dill and Nabin took us to a Nepali Traditional Restaurant with Nepali dancing.
Sitting on the floor, being served Dal bath , momo, Tharkari, Raksi (local wine made out of rice, comparable with Raki) while the dance group was performing.
It was quite expensive, (1200 Rs p/p), once in a life-time, but a nice experience (Nepali Tulu).
On the walk back to Thamel we stopped at a local bar: this was the 'local local' we wanted!
Very loud music, the locals dancing (and our guides) dancing.
Around midnight we were back in our room.
We are getting used a bit to our schedule now: afternoon shower, after all the dust and dirt AND electricity between 17:00 and 20:00.

"Rita2 is excellent in directions: showing us the way out, either we will end up in the kitchen or the toilet!"

Update diary: Wednesday 4 February Kathmandu

Got up about 11.30! "Jet lag" must be done and over with now.
A rickshaw ride (100 Rs = 1 euro) to Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Most of the cultural centres of Nepal are concentrated around the Kathmandu valley. The most important one is the Hanuman -dhoka Durbar Square.
The mystical charm of Durbar Square allures the visitors to spend hours wondering around the area or observing it from one of the roof top terraces.
Dozens of temples are situated on Durbar Square.
It is located at the heart of ancient city Kathmandu, a complex of beautiful temples and shrines, both Hindu and Buddhist. The square with its old temples, palaces, depicts/shows the religious and cultural life of the people. It is here that kings of Nepal were crowned and their coronations solemnized. Until the early 20Th century the Durbar Square was the King's residence. It is a living open museum of Nepal.
The square area is actually made up of two subareas. The outer complex is renowned for numerous interesting temples, while the inner complex comprises the old palace area, and its courtyards. There are many temples in the inner complex also, most notable being the Taleju-temple dedicated to royal female deity.
This temple was built in 1564 by King Mahendra Malla. The temple stands 36.6 metres high, residing on a twelve stage plinth. Its three roofs soar above the rest of the Hanuman-dhoka complex and until very recent times, it was considered very inauspicious to build a house higher than this temple.
The area includes ten courtyards these days, but prior the great earthquake of 1934, the area was expanded up to the New road Gate including 35 courtyards.
Besides the magnificent temples and shrines- of which the exceptionally fine carvings and architecture makes it one of the most important sights for travellers to see, the other interesting aspects are various festivals, cultural activities and traditions people are following for centuries presented.
The site is enlisted in the World Heritage site of UNESCO (entrance price Rs 200).


A walk around and then watching the world go by from a rooftop-terrace.
The sun is shining, which makes it hazy, so we can't see the Himalayan Mountain range.
But a wonderful view of Kathmandu and Swayambhu Temple (Monkey-Temple).
The smell of spices, herbs, scents.
Children playing, people trying to sell whatever you can think off: spices - vegetables - materials - shoes - kitchenware - car parts etc. etc. etc.
Walking back through Thamel. Shops - bars - shops - restaurants and more shops.

In the evening to the Northfield Cafe for a "small" meal. I ordered a light meal: beans and mushrooms. When they put the plate in front of me I said I did not order this: it was a huge plate, looking like a salad. But under the salad was the small portion of mushrooms. As usual I could only finish half.
Showing Rita2 the popular bars of Thamel: Rum-Doodle and for a night cap to Tom & Jerry (sorry Mike :)). Funny enough a glass of wine is 250 Rs, a cocktail 180 Rs and a local brandy 160 Rs.
So, that is sorted!

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Already Wednesday!!!

Hi All,

And then it is already Wednesday!!
Again a 'quickie' and now I do promise in a few days you will get a proper update WITH pictures.
Chitwan was fantastic! Elephant tour with Rhino and some deer.

But the village tour and school visit was really really special.

Yesterday we were in Lumbini: the birthplace of Buddha.
A beautiful place, as you can imagine, very peaceful and spiritual.

This morning we went with our private driver (yes, I know, posh) on our way to Pokhara (where we stay now for at least 10 days, until Rita2 has to go back). We got hold up in a roadblock, but one of the village boys was so kind to come in the car with us to show the driver a way around it. And it certainly was a way around, we lost about 1 and a half hour!!! Road suddenly stopped,
then we had to cross a river











a tractor had an accident so our driver and the village boy ended up helping them taking huge stones from the road till we could move on.









Finally at 14.00 we arrived in Pokhara, where we were heartily welcomed by the staff of Himalayan Encounters. Now we are really settled in our Pokhara Penthouse, time to relax and the day after tomorrow we will go and see the kiddies.
Rita2 is having a bad cold and I have to go and see a dentist tomorrow, after that we will go and see the children!!! Will be a big surprise, they do not know that I am IN Pokhara already. Let's bring the tissues out again.

So far the weather has been fantastic: a lot of sunshine, we are already getting some colour on our faces and arms. Please do not complaint or shout at me when I come back, I know that I am loosing some weight again, I will try not to loose too much weight okay? But I DO eat 3 times a day and I DO feel great!!! And that is what counts, hoina?? (isn't).

We have a few more hours of electricity here in Pokhara, so I will be able to start to write more frequently and in a few days you will get more details WITH the promised pictures from me.
Also now I am travelling together with Rita2 and do not want to spend too many hours at the Internet in the limited time we have together. I am sure you will understand.

I am keeping record of all the prices, things to do, hotels etc. for the trip for next February. I am looking forward to make an itinerary together with Himalayan Encounters for the people who want to come with me next February!!
Come along with Sanghita Travel: Destination NEPAL in cooperation with Himalayan Encounters.

Love you and leave you for now,
but will see you soon!!!