Thursday 5 February, Kathmandu
To Swayambhu Temple (Monkey-Temple). Entrance fee Rs.100.
The legend tells that this place was a big lake with a Lotus in the middle.
(more touristic details will follow later or check : http://sanghita.travellerspoint.com).
A hectic, dusty drive tho Bhaktapur. Nabin, our guide is from Bhaktapur ("the most beautiful city in the world") and it was great fun to have him as company.
"You have NOT seen Nepal, if you have not been stuck in a traffic jam". (Nabin)
About 70% of the Bhaktapur locals are farmers, the rest is working as a carpenter, pottery or tourist shops.
So peaceful after hectic Kathmandu to walk through Bhaktapur - where after the entrance gate you are not allowed with a car in bid to curb pollution.
(Entrance fee 750rs)
"Were there nothing else in Nepal, save the Durbar Square of Bhaktapur, it would still be amply worth making a journey halfway round the world to see". (E. Powell, The Last Home of Mystery, 1929, London).
The conch shaped historic city of Bhaktapur (city of Devotees) spreads over an area of 6.88 sq.km and lies at 12 km. east of Kathmandu. This city was founded in the 12th century by King Anand Dev Malla. It is renowned for its elegant art, fabulous culture,, colourful festivals, traditional dances and the typical Newari lifestyle.
Age-old dances and festivals are still observed by the locals with the same fervour and enthusiasm as their ancestors did in the past.
In spite of continual invasions by intruders and natural calamities, the historic city still boasts of its superb art and subtle culture so vividly depicted on the remaining palaces, temples, monasteries, Biharas and other monuments.
The Hindus and Buddhists have coexisted in harmony and drawn inspirations from each other through the ages.
Bhaktapur is predominantly comprised of the peasantry (farming). Other traditional enterprises like painting, carving, pottery, etc. are still existing.
Monuments and artistic carvings on wood, stone and metal are strewn all over the city.
Alleys and narrow, zigzagged lanes lead you to see the environment of Newar medieval settlements.
Three main squares of the city are connected to one another with quaint streets.
Durbar Square: the most open public place of the city, the most outstanding cluster of exquisite temples and the royal palaces ornamented with work of arts. Here lies: the fifty five windowed palace with the Golden Gate, Golden Spout, Big Bell and a few temples. (picture).
Taumadhi square: just a minute walk from Durbar Square. A standout is the towering five storied pagoda (picture.
This temple is dedicated to the three-headed Deity of the Hindus. The deity symbolizes 3 Deities in combination:
1. Brahma - God of Creation; 2. Bishnu- God of Protection and 3. Maheswara - God of Destruction.
The Square as a whole can be regarded as a museum of wood carvings and one can smell the environments of medieval period around this square.
Pottery Square (picture) where one can observe the potters shaping the pots on their wheels, the women laying out the pots in the sun to dry, the shops where the pottery, elephants etc are on display. (picture).
From Dattatraya Square - where you can see monasteries, the Bhimsen Temple (picture) and where the local market is, you can reach the street where the Peacock Window is placed.
(driver 2000 Rs, guide 1500 Rs).
Dill and Nabin took us to a Nepali Traditional Restaurant with Nepali dancing.
Sitting on the floor, being served Dal bath , momo, Tharkari, Raksi (local wine made out of rice, comparable with Raki) while the dance group was performing.
It was quite expensive, (1200 Rs p/p), once in a life-time, but a nice experience (Nepali Tulu).
On the walk back to Thamel we stopped at a local bar: this was the 'local local' we wanted!
Very loud music, the locals dancing (and our guides) dancing.
Around midnight we were back in our room.
We are getting used a bit to our schedule now: afternoon shower, after all the dust and dirt AND electricity between 17:00 and 20:00.
"Rita2 is excellent in directions: showing us the way out, either we will end up in the kitchen or the toilet!"


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